If you could only own one watch, a dive watch would be hard to beat. It is tough, easy to read, works with almost any outfit and has a rotating bezel that is genuinely useful. This guide explains the features that matter, what water resistance ratings really mean, and how a GMT watch differs.
Anatomy of a dive watch
The rotating bezel
The ring around the crystal is marked from 0 to 60. Line up the triangle at 0 with the minute hand when you start something, and you can read elapsed time at a glance. Divers use it to track time underwater; everyone else uses it for parking meters, cooking and workouts. Many dive bezels turn in one direction only, so a knock can only make the elapsed time look longer, never shorter.
Luminous markers
Large markers and hands are coated with luminous material that glows after being exposed to light, so you can read the time in the dark.
A screw-down or sealed crown
The crown is the main entry point for water. On many dive watches it screws down against a gasket. Always make sure it is pushed in or screwed down before the watch gets wet.
A solid bracelet
Dive watches are usually worn on steel link bracelets with a folding clasp, and many people switch to rubber or fabric straps in summer.
What water resistance ratings mean
Ratings are based on a pressure test in a lab, not the depth you can actually dive to, because movement in water creates extra pressure. As a general guide:
| Rating | Generally fine for |
|---|---|
| 30m / 3 bar | Rain and hand-washing |
| 50m / 5 bar | Light swimming |
| 100m / 10 bar | Swimming and snorkeling |
| 200m / 20 bar and up | Recreational diving |
Check the rating on each listing, avoid hot showers and saunas (heat can affect gaskets), and rinse the watch in fresh water after salt water or a pool.
Date or no date?
A date window at 3 o'clock is practical, often with a magnifying lens over it. A no-date dial is perfectly symmetrical, which many people find cleaner. It is purely a matter of taste. Compare the steel black diver with date and the steel black no-date diver.
Choosing a color
- Black dial, black bezel: the original and most versatile. Steel black.
- Green: bold but still easy to wear. Try sunburst green or emerald.
- Gold-tone: a statement piece that dresses up well. Gold with a black dial.
Sizing
Dive watches are traditionally larger than dress watches. 40mm is a versatile size for most wrists, and 41mm has a little more presence. Because the bracelet attaches to lugs, a dive watch tends to wear true to its case size. Size the bracelet so you can just slide a finger underneath; our bracelet sizing guide shows how.
How a GMT watch is different
A GMT watch looks like a dive watch but solves a different problem: tracking two time zones. It has an extra hand that goes around the dial once every 24 hours, and a bezel marked from 1 to 24, often in two colors to show day and night.
- Set the regular hour and minute hands to local time.
- Set the GMT hand to your home time (or any second time zone) using the 24-hour scale on the bezel.
- Read local time from the main hands and home time from the GMT hand.
The two-color bezel, red and blue, is the most recognizable travel watch look there is. See our steel GMT with red and blue bezel.
Shop dive and GMT watches
Browse all dive watches or the wider dive, GMT and date collection. Every watch has an automatic movement, sapphire crystal, a 2-year warranty, free 1 to 3 day US shipping and 30-day returns. For a broader checklist, see how to choose an automatic mod watch under $300.
Frequently asked questions
Can I swim with a dive watch?
If it is rated to 100m or more and the crown is pushed in or screwed down, a dive watch is generally fine for swimming. Check the rating on the listing first, and rinse it after salt water or chlorine.
What is the rotating bezel for?
Timing. Line up the zero marker with the minute hand and the bezel shows how many minutes have passed.
What does GMT mean on a watch?
GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time. On a watch, it means an extra 24-hour hand that tracks a second time zone.
Is a dive watch OK to wear with a suit?
Yes. A steel dive watch on a bracelet is one of the most accepted watches to wear with a suit, especially in black or a gold-tone finish.